Great River Road Scenic Drive

Many things to see and do in historic Galena, Illinois

The Mississippi River runs from a small stream in northern Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. Roads running adjacent to the river have been designated as parts of the Great River Road Scenic Byway. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder; truth be known, some parts of the Great River Road aren't so scenic! Being upper midwesterners, we have a natural bias towards our section of the drive. Aside from our provincial view, however, Mother Nature has created some unique geography that blesses our portion of the Mississippi with some exceptional scenic views. The portion of the river a little south of Galena, Illinois stretching north to near Hudson, Wisconsin lies within the geological zone called the "Drift less Area." It is a section that escaped the grinding impact of glaciers during the glacial periods that formed the topography of the upper midwest. This resulted in a more rugged topography with high bluffs with prominent rock outcroppings, steep ravines, fertile valleys, numerous tributary streams and rivers, and heavily wooded sections of forest. In our view, the portion of the Great River Road lying in the unglaciated driftless area is the most scenic and interesting part of driving the scenic byway.

So we begin our river road profile near the southern end of the driftless area in historic Galena, Illinois. If you are coming from the east, Rockford-Chicago, you'll arrive in Galena from the south on Route 20. If you are coming from the north (Wisconsin) most will take Route 84, south of Hazel Green, WI.

Galena to Prairie Du Chien

Galena was laid out as a town in 1826. By the 1840s it was a thriving city - when Chicago was still a land of swamps. It was a major Mississippi River port, even though technically it is located on the Galena River, a few miles from Big Muddy.

Its shopping district along Main Street is extensive and populated with historical buildings dating back to the 1850s. (And yes, quilters, there is a nice quilt shop in Galena to feed your habit!)

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Going North on the River Road. Once leaving Galena, take US Highway 20 north and west to Dubuque, Iowa (see map to the right).

Dubuque is Iowa's oldest city, founded in 1788 by French explorer and trader Julien Dubuque. Its attractions include touring the arts and antiques district, the National Mississippi River Museum, the Harbor Riverwalk, the Grand River Center, casinos, and Mississippi Riverboat tours.

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On leaving Dubuque heading north towards Prairie Du Chien, the River Road traveler has two options: cross back over the river into Wisconsin and go north on Wisconsin Hwy 133 or stay in Iowa and proceed via Hwys C9Y and X56 through Balltown, Guttenberg, and McGregor, and Marquette.

We like the Iowa Scenic Byway Drive better. Much more scenic views of the river and the river valley, whereas the Wisconsin route to Prairie du Chien is largely inland - 90% of it away from a view of the river or the river valley.

Balltown, Iowa

Another plus of the Iowa route is going through Balltown via County Road CY9 (which is Iowa's Great River Road Scenic Drive in this region) and stopping at Breitbachs, Iowa's Oldest Bar & Restaurant - now in its sixth generation of operation by the Breitbach Family. > > >

The decor, filled with antiques and old time memorabilia was neat . . . and service and food quite good.

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Balltown actually does have a ball field and one with a great scenic view. A towering home run over the left field fence will roll a long way before it comes to rest !! > > >

Just outside of Balltown is a nice scenic overlook of the Mississippi River valley.

Continue north of Balltown on CY9 until it rejoins Hwy 52. We took a side trip to see where the Cassville Ferry docks, but don't recommend you bother unless you actually intend to use the Ferry. Guttenberg is an interesting looking town, but we didn't have time to stop and explore it. (maybe next time). Just north of Guttenberg, you want to catch another county highway, X56, in order to stay on the scenic river road.

On the way north, you'll pass Pikes Peak State Park - a nice park with terrific views of the river, decent hiking trails, and nicely spaced campsites. We'll be profiling the park, with more info, at a later date. Soon you will arrive in downtown McGregor, Iowa. It is set in a niche between two steep hills. Due to its location the town is primarily a very long main street with a few side streets here and there. Some antiques and interesting shops there. Continuing north, now on Highway 18, you soon arrive in Marquette - almost a twin city to McGregor, but smaller - except for its River Boat Casino.

Cross the bridge at Marquette and you arrive in Prairie Du Chien, one of Wisconsin's oldest communities, tracing its roots back to a 1683 encampment of Fathers Marquette and Jolliet.

Among the attractions are Villa Louis, a plantation era restoration and museum maintained by the Wisconsin Historical Society. The Cannery Antique and Gift Shop is a neat place - large enough to get lost in. And lucky for quilters, there's a cute little quilt shop just a few doors down from the Cannery.

Gals, if up to this point you've been dragging a Significant Other through quilt shops and antiques stores, the Prairie is time for his reward. Just north of town is Cabela's Upper Midwest Warehouse Store - chock full of fishing, hunting, camping, and outdoor gear.

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